M&L Szechuan Chinese

You'll know you're in for something proper when the smell of Szechuan peppercorns hits you before you've even sat down. This North City spot takes its mala seriously — none of that watered-down nonsense you get elsewhere. The mapo tofu arrives bubbling and ferocious, while the twice-cooked pork has that perfect balance of fat and fire that makes your mouth tingle for ages after. The dining room is straightforward and functional, but that's exactly what you want when the kitchen is this focused. Staff know their stuff and won't steer you wrong if you're brave enough to ask for recommendations. At around €15-20 for most mains, it's brilliant value for food that actually respects the complexity of Szechuan cooking.