The Bretzel Bakery & Cafe

You'll smell the bread before you see the modest shopfront on Lennox Street. This is what a neighbourhood bakery should be - flour-dusted surfaces, loaves cooling on wooden shelves, and that particular warmth that only comes from ovens that never really stop working. The sourdough here has proper tang and structure, the kind that makes you realise what you've been settling for elsewhere. Expect to queue at weekends when half of Portobello descends for their weekly bread haul, but it moves quickly enough. The pastries are equally sound - croissants that actually flake properly and Danish that don't taste like they've travelled from a factory. It's the sort of place that makes you feel slightly superior about your breakfast choices, and rightly so.