Beehive Inn

You're planted right in the thick of Grassmarket's action here, watching hen dos stumble past while nursing a proper pint of Belhaven. The ground floor buzzes with that particular energy of tourists mixing with locals who've claimed their corner table, while upstairs offers a bit more breathing room when the cobbles get too mental. The food does what it says on the tin – think hearty Scottish pub classics that'll soak up whatever damage you're planning to do later. Sure, you're paying Grassmarket prices, but the location delivers. Whether you're starting your Old Town crawl or ending it depends entirely on your stamina and how much you enjoy the theatre of Edinburgh's most chaotic street unfolding outside the windows.