Biddy Mulligans

You'll spot the dark green frontage from halfway across Grassmarket, and that's exactly the point. This proper Irish boozer doesn't mess about with gastropub pretensions or craft beer nonsense – it's all about honest pints, hearty grub, and the kind of atmosphere that makes you forget you've got work tomorrow. The interior feels like it's been here since the Highland clans were causing bother, all dark wood and worn leather banquettes that have absorbed decades of craic. Food-wise, think generous portions of bangers and mash, fish and chips that actually fill the plate, and Sunday roasts that'll sort you right out after a heavy Saturday night. The Guinness is properly poured (they take it seriously here), and when the live music kicks off most evenings, the whole place comes alive with that particular brand of Celtic chaos that makes Grassmarket what it is.