Greyfriars Bobby's Bar

You'll spot the tourists queuing for photos outside before you even reach the door, all clutching cameras and guidebooks. Yes, this Candlemaker Row pub milks the Greyfriars Bobby legend for all it's worth, but don't let that put you off entirely. Step inside and you'll find a proper old-school Edinburgh boozer with dark wood, low ceilings, and decent ales on tap. The food's standard pub grub – think fish and chips, haggis neeps and tatties, bangers and mash – but it's done well enough and the portions are generous. Staff are surprisingly patient given the constant stream of confused visitors asking where the dog statue is (it's outside, obviously). Best visited on a quieter weekday afternoon when you can actually hear yourself think and appreciate the genuinely atmospheric interior.