Ox Club

You'll smell the woodsmoke before you even step inside this converted Victorian space on The Headrow. The open kitchen dominates the room, all flames and theatre, while industrial beams and floor-to-ceiling windows create an atmosphere that's both raw and refined. The menu reads like comfort food's university graduation – think coal-roasted vegetables that taste like they've been kissed by campfire gods, and meats so perfectly charred they border on the spiritual. Weekend brunch draws proper crowds (book ahead), but evenings are when this place really flexes. The wine list skews natural without being preachy, and service strikes that sweet spot between knowledgeable and unpretentious that makes you want to become a regular.