Phranakhon

You'll walk past this narrow York Place entrance three times before spotting it, but once you're inside, the warm lighting and intimate tables make it clear you've found something special. The kitchen here understands Thai food properly – none of that sweet, anglicised nonsense you get elsewhere in the city centre. The tapas-style approach works brilliantly, letting you order several small plates and actually taste the difference between their various curries and stir-fries. Their cocktail list shows the same attention to detail, with proper Thai-inspired drinks that complement rather than compete with the food. Book ahead though – with only a handful of tables, you'll be disappointed if you just turn up.