Dishoom

You'll smell the cardamom and cinnamon before you even spot the queue snaking down Upper St Martin's Lane. Inside, ceiling fans whir above marble-topped tables whilst waiters in white coats weave between the closely-packed seats with trays of steaming naan and sizzling grills. The morning rush brings City workers grabbing bacon naan rolls, but evenings transform this Covent Garden corner into something altogether more theatrical. The black daal alone justifies the inevitable wait – it's been bubbling away for a full day and tastes like velvet laced with cream and butter. Pair it with a lamb biriyani that arrives in a sealed pot, dramatically opened tableside in a cloud of aromatic steam. Even their masala chai comes properly spiced and strong enough to wake the dead, served in those satisfying thick-rimmed cups that feel authentically cafe-wallah.