Johnson Arms

You'll find this red-brick beauty tucked away in Dunkirk, where the landlords actually know their beer and the regulars feel more like extended family than strangers. The Johnson Arms does everything a proper pub should: excellent cask ales that change regularly, hearty food that doesn't try to be fancy, and a front bar where you can settle in for the afternoon without anyone batting an eyelid. Sunday roasts are the real draw here – massive Yorkshire puddings, proper gravy, and meat that falls apart at the touch of a fork. Book ahead or risk disappointment. The beer garden out back gets packed on sunny days, and rightly so.