Castle Farm, Midford

You're driving down Midford Road when the landscape opens up and suddenly you're somewhere properly rural—which is rather the point. Castle Farm sits in its own patch of the Midford valley, occupying a converted agricultural space with the kind of honest character you can't manufacture. Inside, it's all exposed stone and unpretentious charm, the sort of place where the kitchen's doing interesting things without making a song and dance about it. The food takes itself seriously; the wine list does too. You'll find locals who've made the trip from town mixing with proper foodies who've heard about the place.