Thaikhun

You'll find yourself squeezed into Little Southgate between the Georgian terraces, walking past independent shops towards a place that actually knows what it's doing with Thai food. Thaikhun pulls no punches: the curries have proper heat if you want them, the som tam isn't apologetic, and the pad thai tastes like it's been made by someone who gives a damn. It's casual enough that you can rock up solo or with a group, but there's enough skill in the kitchen that it feels more considered than your average high street Thai spot. The place stays packed because word's got around — locals actually book ahead.