Michael Wan's Mandarin 上官樓

You're walking into something that feels like it's been doing this for decades, because it has. Michael Wan's sits quietly on Clifton Street, away from the seafront chaos, and that's exactly where it should be. This is the kind of place where locals queue for dim sum trolleys and the roasted duck comes out gleaming, properly hung and flavoured. The dining room's comfortable without trying too hard—red lanterns, wooden booths, the sound of Cantonese being spoken in the kitchen. It's unpretentious enough to bring your mates on a Saturday night, but the food's got enough craft that you'll actually remember what you ate.