Bulrush

You'll walk past this narrow Cotham Road frontage dozens of times before you notice it, which is exactly how chef George Livesey likes it. Inside, barely 20 covers squeeze into what feels like someone's rather sophisticated front room, complete with mismatched chairs and walls lined with cookbooks. The menu changes constantly based on what Livesey finds at the market that morning, but expect clever riffs on British classics executed with serious technique. Think Jerusalem artichoke soup with truffle oil that actually tastes of truffle, or perfectly pink duck breast with blackberry jus that doesn't try too hard to impress. The wine list punches well above its weight, and service strikes that sweet spot between knowledgeable and genuinely friendly.