The Earl Of March

Head out towards Lavant and you'll find yourself at a proper grown-up restaurant that takes itself seriously without the stuffiness. The Earl of March trades in seasonal cooking that changes with what's actually available, meaning you're not eating the same thing as the table next to you visited six months ago. Service strikes that difficult balance—attentive without hovering—and the kitchen's clearly got its head screwed on about flavour and technique. It's the kind of place you book for an anniversary or when you want to remind yourself why restaurants matter.