L'Enoteca di Napoli

You'll find this lovely Italian operation tucked just off St Stephen's Green on Fenian Street, where they're doing things the right way. The handmade pasta changes daily depending on what's good, and the wine list reads like someone's actually been to Italy recently – not just ordered whatever was cheap from a distributor. The space feels properly intimate without being cramped, and the staff know their stuff when it comes to pairing wines with whatever beautiful thing they've pulled from the kitchen. It's the kind of place where you can have a proper chat over dinner without shouting, which seems increasingly rare around town. Fair warning though – they're closed Mondays and Sundays, so don't rock up expecting miracles.