The Brazen Head

You'll find this sprawling old boozer tucked behind the quays, and despite what every guidebook tells you, it's not just tourist bait. Yes, the tour groups descend daily, but there's a reason The Brazen Head has survived since the 12th century – it knows how to pour a pint and feed people properly. The warren of rooms feels authentically worn rather than theme-park Irish, with proper fires crackling and enough nooks to escape the crowds. The menu sticks to what works: decent fish and chips, proper Irish stew, and a Sunday roast that won't disappoint your granny. It's not groundbreaking, but it's honest pub grub done well. Come for a quiet afternoon pint if you want to appreciate the atmosphere without fighting through selfie sticks, or embrace the chaos on weekend evenings when the traditional music kicks off.