The Washerwoman

You'll find this place tucked up on Glasnevin Hill, where the residential streets start getting properly steep and the tourists thin out considerably. The dining room feels like someone's converted front room - in the best possible way - with mismatched chairs and that particular brand of Irish hospitality that makes you want to stay for hours. The menu changes with what's good, which means you might get disappointed if you've been dreaming about that lamb dish from three weeks ago, but also means everything arrives tasting like it actually matters. The kitchen knows its way around seasonal Irish ingredients without making a song and dance about it, and the portions are generous enough that you'll leave properly satisfied rather than hunting for chips on the way home.