Albanach

You're on the High Street, in the thick of the Old Town chaos, but step into Albanach and you've found the sort of place that feels lived-in rather than polished for tourists. Dark wood, low ceilings, and a bar that actually serves locals alongside the visitors. The pints are well-kept, the whisky selection is respectable without being show-offy, and the food—burgers, pies, that sort of thing—hits the mark without faffing about. It's the pub you'd hope to find on the Royal Mile, not some heritage-themed pastiche.