Bannerman's Bar

You descend into Bannerman's like you're entering some subterranean Edinburgh institution—because you are. The Cowgate location puts you right in the thick of the Old Town's drinking scene, but this place has the good sense to feel removed from the tourist chaos. The stone walls, low ceilings, and cluttered charm give it that lived-in vibe that comes from actually being somewhere locals return to, not somewhere they're herded toward. Live music happens regularly, and they take their beer selection seriously without being insufferable about it.