Civerinos Portobello

Head down Figgate Lane and you'll find yourself in one of Edinburgh's most unassuming food destinations. Civerinos has that rare quality of being genuinely popular without any of the self-consciousness that usually comes with it. The pizza is built on proper sourdough fermented for 72 hours, fired in a wood oven that actually knows what it's doing, and finished with ingredients that taste like they've been chosen rather than procured. You're looking at the kind of place where locals outnumber tourists (a very good sign), the noise level proves everyone's having a proper time, and you won't need to remortgage for dinner.