Frites-Leith Walk

You're walking up Leith Walk and suddenly there's the smell of proper frying oil and vinegar hitting you—that's your cue to stop. This place takes the whole frites business seriously in a way that feels almost continental, which is exactly what you want when you're craving something that isn't just a side dish. The queue moves fast enough that you won't be standing around getting cold, and the staff know what they're doing. It's the kind of spot where locals queue up because they know what's what, not because it's fashionable to queue.