LYLA Restaurant & Rooms

You're walking into the kind of place that takes itself seriously without being stuffy about it. LYLA occupies a proper Georgian terrace on the eastern edge of the New Town, all high ceilings and period details, but the cooking feels contemporary and unfussy. This is where you come when you want to taste what a chef can do with the best Scottish larder—think seafood from the Firth of Forth, game from the Borders, produce that actually means something. Service is genuinely attentive rather than fawning, which matters when you're dropping proper money on dinner.