MacKays On The Mile

You're walking down Canongate, dodging the crowds, and you spot the queue snaking out of MacKays. Don't assume it's a tourist trap—locals are in here too, which tells you something. The menu reads like a love letter to Scottish cooking: proper haggis, creamy cullen skink, fish and chips that don't disappoint. It's the kind of place where you can bring your mum and your mates, where nobody's pretending, and where a full meal won't obliterate your wallet. The atmosphere is warm without trying too hard, and the service moves things along without making you feel rushed.