Nami

You're walking down Shore and the light's hitting the Water of Leith just right when you spot Nami tucked amongst the galleries and independent spots that make this stretch feel genuinely worth your time. Inside, it's intimate without being fussy—the kind of place where the kitchen's clearly obsessed with what they're doing, but nobody's making a theatre out of it. Expect precise Japanese cooking that respects its ingredients rather than performing tricks with them. It's the sort of restaurant that locals actually book for special occasions, partly because the food's genuinely excellent, partly because Leith's finally got somewhere that doesn't feel like it's trying too hard.