Santu Coffee

You're walking down Canongate, the lower stretch of the Royal Mile where it actually feels like a neighbourhood rather than a tourist gauntlet, and you clock Santu. It's the kind of place that doesn't need to shout about itself. The espresso is properly pulled—you can taste it's been thought about—and if you're ordering filter, they're not messing about with beans either. It's minimal without being austere, busy without being frantic, and the sort of spot where locals actually queue because the coffee's worth it, not because it's fashionable.