The Advocate

You're standing on Hunter Square, that wee cobbled pocket just off the Royal Mile where the tourists haven't quite figured out yet. The Advocate pulls you in with the promise of decent beer and the kind of atmosphere that doesn't try too hard—no craft cocktail menus or Instagram-bait here. Inside, it's all dark wood and worn-in charm, the sort of place where you can actually hear your mates talk. The drinks list takes itself seriously without being precious about it, and there's proper food on offer if you've had more than a few. It's the pub you'd recommend to someone wanting to actually experience Edinburgh's drinking culture rather than just pose for a picture.