The Castle Arms

You're walking down Johnston Terrace, practically in the shadow of Edinburgh Castle, when you spot The Castle Arms—and it's exactly what you want it to be. This is where locals actually drink, not tourists hunting for tartan tat. The bar's got that lived-in warmth of a place that's been serving the same neighbourhood for decades, all dark wood and brass fixtures that catch the light just right. The real ales rotate properly, the food's honest and filling (fish and chips, proper pies, the kind of stuff that actually tastes like something), and there's a good chance you'll end up chatting to someone who actually lives in the Old Town rather than just passing through.