Enfes Ocakbasi

Head down Hertford Road and you'll find yourself in a proper Turkish kitchen – the kind where charcoal smoke and the smell of grilling meat tells you everything you need to know before you even sit down. The ocakbasi (that's the open grill) is where the magic happens, and watching the kitchen crew work is half the entertainment. You're eating where Enfield locals actually eat, not somewhere trying too hard: honest Turkish grills, mezze that tastes like someone's nan made it, and a wine list that doesn't take the piss.