Sumo

You'll find Sumo tucked away on Melville Street, just off the main drag, and it's become the sort of place locals actually defend. Walking in, there's that brilliant contrast between stripped-back decor and genuinely skilled cooking happening in the kitchen. The ramen bowls arrive steaming and properly constructed — broth that's been treated with respect, noodles with actual bite, and toppings that aren't just scattered on for show. Whether you're after tonkotsu or something lighter, portions are generous without being ridiculous, and you're rarely spending more than £12-15 for a proper bowl. It's consistently busy, which tells you everything you need to know.