Gylly Beach Cafe

Walk down onto Gyllyngvase Beach and you'll spot the café tucked right there by the water — no pretence, just good timing. You're sitting with a flat white (they take it seriously here) watching surfers and swimmers come and go, the sound of waves doing most of the conversation. The breakfast runs long into the afternoon, there are cakes that look homemade because they probably are, and the sort of relaxed chaos that happens when a café actually belongs on a beach rather than just tolerating it.