The Orgia

Walk up Church Street past the usual suspects and you'll find The Orgia tucked away like locals actually know about it. This is Italian done without the faffing about—the kind of place where they're not trying to reinvent the wheel, just cook it properly. The kitchen clearly respects their ingredients, whether that's fresh pasta made with actual technique or the seafood they're pulling from the Cornish waters just down the hill. It's unpretentious enough that you don't feel like you need to dress up, but polished enough that you'll want to.