Madurai

You walk into Madurai and there's no pretension, just a straightforward room where they're getting on with serious South Indian food. The dosas are the real deal – crispy, properly fermented, the kind that make you wonder why everywhere else is getting it wrong. There's a precision to their curries too, whether you're going for the heat or playing it safe. It's the sort of place where locals have already worked out their regular order, and the kitchen respects that by executing it properly every single time. St Vincent Street's got no shortage of restaurants, but this one's earned its reputation the honest way.