The Tolbooth Bar

You'll find yourself down a stretch of Saltmarket that feels like it's been serving the city for centuries – because it basically has. The Tolbooth pulls in a genuine crowd: folk from the offices above, regulars who've been coming since their dad's day, and enough real ale taps to keep any beer nerd happy. It's the kind of place where conversation actually happens instead of everyone staring at their phones, and the barstaff know their regulars by name. Expect wooden beams, a working fireplace when it's Baltic, and a selection of Scottish cask ales that changes regularly. Pints sit around £4-5, and there's proper pub snacks if you're peckish.