Pollino

You'll find yourself on Warley Road heading towards the town centre, and Pollino sits there doing the kind of uncomplicated Italian food that makes you wonder why everywhere else tries so hard. The room is warm without being fussy—the sort of place where locals actually eat, not somewhere performing at you. The pasta is made with real skill, the sauces taste like someone bothered, and there's a genuine effort with wine that goes beyond the usual suspects. It's the kind of restaurant that gets repeat visits because it gets the basics right and doesn't get distracted by trends.