The Tannin Level

You'll find yourself on Raglan Street, just off the main drag, where The Tannin Level sits with the kind of understated confidence that makes you wonder why you haven't been sooner. It's the sort of place where regulars prop up the bar with a glass of something interesting, but the food—proper, unfussy cooking—keeps people coming back as much as the wine list. There's a real buzz here without the pretension; you're as likely to see someone in hiking boots as someone dressed up for the evening. The wine selection is what anchors everything, but this isn't a place that makes you feel small for ordering a £20 bottle.