Graze on Grand

You're walking along Grand Parade with the sea smell hitting you properly, the kind of day when St Leonards feels like somewhere worth staying in rather than just passing through. Graze sits right there in the thick of it, and it's the sort of place that makes you realise how rare it is to find cooking that listens to what the ingredients want to do. They work with what's coming in—fish from boats you can practically see from the window, vegetables that haven't been sat in a lorry for three days. The menu changes because seasons are real things, and they're not interested in pretending otherwise. It's understated enough that you might walk past thinking it's not much, but regulars know better. The kind of spot where you actually want to book ahead.