Caledonian

You'll find the Caledonian right there in the thick of it on High Street, where the city's pulse actually beats. It's the kind of place where locals genuinely outnumber tourists, which tells you something about its staying power. Walk in and you get what you came for: a decent pint, straightforward food that doesn't apologise for itself, and staff who know the regulars by name. There's nothing showy about it, just a proper neighbourhood pub that's been doing the same solid job for years.