The Forge Kitchen

You'll find this Duke Street spot doing the kind of cooking that makes you wonder why you bother with anywhere else. The menu changes with what's good, which means you might get lamb belly with fermented chilli one week and cured mackerel with pickled cucumber the next. Everything arrives looking like someone actually cares about it. The wine list leans natural without being preachy about it, and the staff know their stuff without making you feel thick. It's the sort of place where you can bring your mum for Sunday lunch or settle in for a proper evening with friends. The prices won't make you wince – mains hover around £18-24 – and portions are generous enough that you won't leave plotting your next meal.