Brawn

You're walking into somewhere that feels like it's been feeding people well for far longer than it actually has. Brawn sits on Columbia Road, that buzzy Shoreditch strip that somehow hasn't entirely lost its edge, and it does the kind of unfussy Mediterranean food that makes you wonder why everywhere else seems to overcomplicate things. The kitchen knows what it's doing with grilled fish and meat, seasonal veg that tastes like actual veg, and they're clearly not pretending to be something they're not. It's the sort of place where you feel immediately comfortable, whether you're here for a quick lunch or stretching dinner into the evening with a bottle of natural wine.