Mama Li - Canary Wharf

You're in the heart of the Wharf's gleaming estate, but step into Mama Li and you've landed somewhere genuinely unpretentious. The kind of place where they're not trying to impress you with Instagram angles; they're just getting on with doing brilliant Cantonese food the way it's meant to be done. The dim sum trolley actually moves, the roasted meats hang in the window, and the kitchen treats each dish like it matters. It's the sort of restaurant that makes you realise how much of what passes for Cantonese elsewhere is just theatre.