Manicomio

You're walking through Duke of York Square on a Friday evening and the place is absolutely rammed—that's how you know it's doing something right. Manicomio sits pretty in this Chelsea pocket, and locals have cottoned on to the fact that it's consistently good without any of the pomp. The menu reads like someone's actually been to Italy and paid attention: housemade pasta, proper risottos, the kind of seafood dishes that don't overcomplicate things. It's the sort of place where you can roll in solo for a quick plate of something delicious, or settle in for a proper dinner with friends.