No 60 Brasserie

You'll walk into No 60 and immediately feel the pull of a place that's quietly confident about what it does. Newington Green's got that particular North London energy—a bit artsy, a bit settled, full of people who live there rather than pass through—and this brasserie slots in perfectly. The cooking's rooted in French technique but it's not some precious, fussy affair; it's the kind of place where you can tell the kitchen knows the difference between a proper béarnaise and pretension. Expect bistro classics done well, seasonal specials that make sense, and wine that's been actually thought about.