Parrillan Borough Yards

You'll find yourself down Dirty Lane, which sounds dodgy but absolutely isn't, tucked into the Borough Yards development near the market proper. It's the kind of place where they're serious about their parilla—that's the charcoal grill—and it shows. The menu pivots around what's actually good on fire: cured ibérico pork, whole fish, vegetables that taste like they've been kissed rather than cremated. The room's got that warm industrial thing going on, all exposed brick and amber lighting, so it feels like somewhere locals have claimed rather than somewhere tourists have conquered.