Kafeneon

You're walking down Bigg Market on a Friday night and the smell of charcoal and oregano pulls you in. Kafeneon's the kind of place where they're not trying to reinvent the wheel; they're just doing the fundamentals brilliantly. The dining room's warm and unpretentious, packed with locals who know what they want and regulars who've been coming for years. Order the saganaki if it's on, get some grilled octopus, let someone else choose the wine. It's the sort of restaurant that makes you realise how little faffing about Greek food actually needs.