Portofino Restaurant

You head down Mosley Street in the city centre and walk into somewhere that feels genuinely Italian rather than faffed about. Portofino's been around long enough to know what works: they're not trying to reinvent the wheel with truffle oil on everything. The place has that comfortable, lived-in feel of a neighbourhood trattoria, all warm lighting and the kind of service that actually knows the menu inside out. It's the sort of spot where you pop in for proper risotto or a decent steak, not for Instagram points.