The Fig Tree @ 36

Walk down Admiralty Street and you'll find The Fig Tree doing the unglamorous work of being brilliant at the basics. It's the kind of place locals actually return to—not because it's fashionable, but because the kitchen knows what it's doing. The room itself is unpretentious; you're not paying for gilt mirrors or theatrical plating here. What you get instead is confident cooking with Mediterranean influences, the sort of menu that changes seasonally and means something. Stonehouse has needed a proper restaurant for ages, and this one quietly delivers without any fuss.