Pulcinella

Walk into Pulcinella and you've crossed into the kind of Italian restaurant that doesn't need to try too hard. It's tucked away on Commercial Road, where locals actually eat rather than tourists stumbling through the town centre. The kitchen clearly respects tradition: you'll find handmade pasta, proper sauces that have simmered properly, and a wine list that feels like it was chosen by someone who actually drinks wine rather than works from a spreadsheet. Service is the kind that makes you feel looked after without hovering, and at these prices—proper mains hovering around £12-16—it's the sort of place you'll find yourself returning to regularly rather than saving for special occasions.