Al-Farid

You're walking down Holywell Hill past the Cathedral and suddenly the smell hits you—cumin, cinnamon, preserved lemon. Al-Farid's got this warm, unpretentious vibe where you actually want to linger over dinner instead of rushing through. The tagines are the real deal: slow-cooked, layered, nothing fussy about it. They do proper couscous, lamb that falls apart, and if you're ordering for a group, go the mezze route and share. The place fills up with locals who know what they're doing, which is always a good sign.