Los Gatos

You'll find yourself transported from the familiar stretch of Devizes Road into something that feels authentically Spanish the moment you step through the door. The paella here is the real deal – saffron-scented rice with a proper socarrat crust that speaks to genuine technique, not the sad yellow rice disasters you'll find elsewhere in town. The tapas selection runs deep, from perfectly seasoned patatas bravas with aioli that has actual garlic bite, to jamón that's been sliced with care. The wine list leans heavily Spanish, which is exactly what you want when you're tucking into proper chorizo that hasn't seen the inside of a supermarket packet. Service moves at a pace that suggests they understand Spanish dining culture – this isn't a place to rush through dinner.