The Swan

You'll find The Swan tucked away on New Street, in that stretch between the cathedral quarter and the town centre that actually feels like somewhere locals live rather than somewhere tourists pass through. It's the kind of place where the regulars nod at each other, the bar staff remember what you drink, and nobody's worried about Instagram angles. The real ales rotate regularly—worth asking what's on—and the food is straightforward stuff done right: pies that taste like pies, chips that are actually crispy. It's got soul without trying too hard.